Tutorials‎ > ‎Armor Projects‎ > ‎Halo Helmet‎ > ‎


What you will need:
  • The program Pepakura Designer
  • Card Stock 8.5 x 11 (90 lb to 110 lb)
  • X-Acto Knife & Extra Blades
  • Self-Healing Cutting Pad or any cutting pad (compared to just cutting on cardboard, an actual cutting board saves X-Acto blades like you wouldn't believe).
  • Hot Glue Gun & Glue
Elapsed Time (with 3 people specializing in different tasks) : 5 Hours (watch a movie or something)

So, first things first, we need to download and install the Pepakura software. It can be found at http://www.tamasoft.co.jp/pepakura-en/ and is offered in a free (view only) or Designer for 38 US dollars. For this tutorial Designer is preferable. 

You now must choose what file/armor you wish to create. We included a comprehensive list of Halo Pep files/armors found 

For our project we decided to use the  <Halo 3 Database/Spartan Mk. VI/Helmets/MJOLNIR Mk. VI/MKOLNIR Mk.VI (MKVI_HELMET_ROBOGENESIS).pdo>  file.

Thankfully the creator of this file has scaled the armor to 12.5 inches tall, a perfect size for an adult male. So we will be skipping right to the cutting and printing stage of this project.* If you feel this is too large, follow this tutorial on scaling *

So you can go ahead and print out these documents on CARD STOCK (trust us on this), which has proven to be much stronger and more reliable then regular printer paper.

So now that you have printed out all the pages, we need to start cutting. For this task, we found that an X-Acto knife with a self healing pad works the best, however scissors are a viable option as well.

We recommend that you keep the 3D model open, picking your starting part and finding the pieces you need to cut out to surround that part. Having the papers organized numerically will help you easily identify where the parts are located, whats left, and whats been used. 

We found that the best system (to save a tremendous amount of time and effort) is to have one person pick, cut, and score each piece while the other glues it immediately so they pieces are not lost or mixed up. If you're all by your lonesome, we'd still recommend gluing each piece immediately, so you don't have to remember where it goes, or dig through piles of remarkably similar cutouts looking for the piece you want.

After you cut out the pieces, scoring the dotted lines will help you keep a more true shape to the 3D model. Light pressure with the X-Acto knife can be used, but ball-point pens are an option too.

Its important to remember that we are only scoring the dotted lines, be careful not to cut all the way through or the folds will break every time you bend the paper.

We will now start connecting the cut out parts. We have found that hot glue works best, it drys fast and even though it's not the strongest glue around, that won't matter for long, as we'll be coating and hardening the helmet once this stage is finished. If you feel like experimenting, we'd still recommend against crazy glue and gorilla glue as the frustration was immense and the results were terrible.

If this is your first time attempting Pepakura the object is to match up numbers, apply glue to the tab (small area broken up by the dotted line), and lineup the pieces by using the numbers and edges to get a perfect fit. * The Image below is an example of how they should be lined up *


Keep referencing the 3D model to see which way the scored (dotted) lines should be bent and try your best to keep everything lined up but if parts start to shift and don't line up, don’t give up. Just try to adjust for the changes and remember many of the mistakes will be corrected in the bondo/detailing stage.

Now rinse and repeat till all the parts are cut out and glued together. Below are pictures of our progress through this phase.

Remember! Every good helmet starts out as a silly hat.

 Even ours isn't 100% perfect, but we can use bondo to fix the issues later.

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